The wind that started gently in the evening blew all night through the palm leaves. It is noisy but soothing and together with the gentle surf noise add to the magic of the island. The Kuna is a matriarchal society. The men marries in the wife’s family who manages the household. And no better example of this than Ligia, the head of the household with the accommodations in Isla Coco Blanco where we stay. She is dressed and looks like a simple Indian woman but when she speaks is clear who is the boss. Always on the phone, somehow she gets some reception when she is almost in the water but neither of us did, and with a copybook in her hands she runs the business like an executive manager calling to arrange transportation, accommodations, permits for access on islands and everything else. She also takes the food order between fish, cooked in various ways, mariscos and now chicken. If you want to solve anything, getting your battery charged, changing your cabin, taking a latter boat and car to Panama or doing a special trip, Ligia is the point person and no matter that she may say first that it cannot be done, she tries and gets it done in the end.
Cayos Holandese are a group of islands quite far of Cayos Lemones where we stay. They are one of the most beautiful islands being remote but also because they have some kind of coral reef around where colorful fish can be seen. Beside the daily trips that are organized by the Kunas if you stay longer they would take you to Cayos Holandese. We started last night to persuade Ligia to bring us there, me together with the Italians and the Germans. At the beginning she refused saying that she cannot get permits because is too risky the waves being too high but after we tried again with all sorts of arguments she gave up and told us that the trip will be in the afternoon when the waves may subside. We spend the morning chatting and taking pictures for the Robert and Tania who married a week and a half ago in Costa Rica but they did not have a chance to take any pictures. So they dressed as for their wedding, she in a short white wedding dress and consulting also with Valentino I did an entire photo session of wedding photography, something that I never did in my life but as I told them I did indigenous tribes so it may be similar…..After an early lunch of farfale with mariscos for everybody sanctioned by Valentino as good we left to the Cayos Holandese. The waves were quite high and pretty jumpy in the open sea. At one point our boat was being signaled by another boat far away and when we reached them there were only three chicks on the boat with no Kuna and they were pointing in the water a little bit far. The Kuna was bobbing in the water with a life vest, got him on our boat and further to his but he did not want to tell us what happened and we assumed that he wanted to be a show off to the girls and fell into the water.
The Cayos were beautiful strips of sands covered with palm trees, very close to the dangerous reef and surrounded by the perfect Caribbean green water. Close to it lots of boats wrecks ended their sailing life abandoned to fish and other sea creatures. Several of these boats were used by “narcos” from Colombia to bring the load over night. Manta rays and sea rays were swimming around and the coral reef almost dead was still full with colorful fish. If I were not in Coiba I would have said that is very nice but after that fish tank experience everything else would pale. As like in the other islands we had to pay $2 access fee to some guys who were there on location and they did not have anything t do anyhow than to collect a fee. After a swim and some snorkeling with the rays we were chased a little by time and the very high waves and left to our headquarters where the sunset refused again to put the expected show. Caribbean is always covered in clouds at the horizon, this being probably the typical landscape in March waiting for the rain.