Vama Veche is a different realm. It used to be a tiny fishing hamlet with absolutely zero development where hippies were camping on a beach covered by seagulls. Love, music and booze under the stars using the corn field as toilets; a forgotten backwater one km away from the border with Bulgaria. But this Vama Veche survived few years after the fall of the Communism and it was reinvented in the last 20 years in an incredible way.
When the taxi dropped us close to midnight in the center of the village, the street that went to the sea was like a bee hive. I had the same feeling as the one I had when for the first time I was dropped by a midnight flight in Bangkok’s Khao Sarn Road, a place that hardly sleeps where I spent a lot of sleepless nights. The to and fro of youth zooming on the main access street to the beach was mind boggling. When I passed through Costinesti I was wondering where all those nice young kids that were roaming its alleys went. But in the midnight of Vama Veche I sensed and lived the same spirit, surrounded by new generations.
Everything was open and the two floor restaurants, just mere platforms, were overlooking the street and the sea being packed by youth of all ages, Bookstores were open at midnight, souvenir shops, stalls with bracelets of all style that you can find in any corner of the world, colored wedlocks, artifacts, art places but more than anything bars and music.
We walked the long stretch of the beach where bonfires were lit and from where a sort of candle lit floats were raised toward the starry sky. The magic atmosphere was imbued with the classical rhythm of Bob Marley or salsa pumped from the beach bars where tequila was flowing. From a concert stage an electric violin accords was piercing the night. The music of the open air free clubs were competing for customers in a nice free spirit. Most of the youth in Vama come here with little money that miraculously stretch in time and keep them on the beach for weeks in a row. Been there, done that; …and we ended our night surrounded by them dancing on the beach under the stars in one of the places that were pumping music toward the undulating sea that was moving with us all in the same spirit.
We returned in the morning to explore the place by day, the beach, the sun, the wind all exulting freshness. The Pescarie’s cool drinking lounge overlooking the beach was packed with people chilling and waiting for the lunch time to descend to the “Cherhana“, a great fish restaurant.
The looming storm did not frighten us and we had our fish at the “Cherhana” under menacing clouds and blown drops of rain like in a Bunuel movie. We finished with one of almost everyday concerts, this time a jazz+funk+rap concert all in a magic atmosphere overlooking a stretch of sand lit by the candle lit floats and waiting for the looming storm that never fully came.