Tag Archives: buda-castle

Castle Hill

Fishermen’s Bastion, Buda-Budapest, Hungary

While walking in Pest you could see from many locations the palace perched on the hill across the Danube. Buda Castle was the seat of the kings of Hungary ruling from Buda established as capital in 1361. Buda and Pest were separate cities. They united and formed Budapest in 1873 making it the second-largest city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after Vienna. Pest got conquered by the Ottomans in 1526, and 15 years later Buda fell also under their rule becoming capital of the Budin province during the Ottoman rule and they stayed like this for almost 150 years when the Habsburg took over defeating the Turks.

Matthias Church, Buda-Budapest, Hungary

In the middle of the square topping Buda hill, Mathias Church, founded in 1015 was used for centuries as a coronation site by Hungarian kings. It was rebuilt in gothic style in the 14th century and restored in the late 19th century. Near the church is the statue of St Stephen statue the founder of Hungarian kingdom, credited also for christianizing the Hungarian tribes. As a result he got promoted from king to saint.

Fishermen’s Bastion, Buda-Budapest, Hungary

But the main structure that can be seen on Buda hill is the Fishermen’s Bastion, a romantic reinforcement built at the beginning of the 20th century. There was no defensive intent in its construction but for beautification of the town on the place where it seemed that the fishermen guild brought their products to the market around Mathias Church. But the story goes that for this benefit the fishermen had to defend the thick walls of the citadel at this specific location.

The funicular descending to the Danube from Buda Hill, Budapest, Hungary

A short walk from the Fishermen’s bastion is the Buda Castle that host the Hungarian National Art Museum and just nearby is the newly renovated palace of the Hungarian president.From the hill you can descend by a funicular with amazing views over Széchenyi Chain Bridge, the famous chained bridge of Budapest.

Parliament and Pest city. Budapest, Hungary
Gellert Bath, Buda-Budapest, Hungary
Elisabeth Bridge, Buda-Budapest, Hungary

It was a long walk around the Buda Hill’s sites and I was rushing at one point because I had to catch a train to Bratislava. I walked the Chain bridge in Pest and in the last hour I had available I went to visit the House of Terror, the museum dedicated to what the Hungarians call, the two occupations, the Nazi and Communists, identical brothers in ideology. The museum was developed in the building once occupied by the Nazi party just to be taken over after the war by the Hungarian Secret Police. Conveniently, they just changed labels and applied the same terror to the people.

House of Terror Museum, Pest-Budapest, Hungary

On the museum’s first floor is a tank used by the Soviets in quashing the 1956 revolt of the Hungarians zesting for freedom. The museum exhibits are spread on two floors before descending into the basement where the torture chambers and the jail were preserved intact together with the torture devices. But what strikes most is the chagrin the museum’s films and regular folks’ interviews exude, all explaining how the communists will destroy the country. It’s a sentiment of powerlessness combined with anger and rage for the crimes those people committed and total disgust for the communists that brought the enslavement and emasculation of an entire country.

Ruined Pubs

St Stephen Cathedral, Pest, Budapest, Hungary

Somehow I always ignored visiting places close to home. Irrelevant what that home might be. I traveled from Ushuaia to Fairbanks and from the tip of Sri Lanka to northern Japan but I never went to Ruse, and implicitly to Bulgaria, 60 km from my original home town, Bucharest. The same happened with Kishinev, Belgrade or Budapest. At the beginning of the 1980s I spent probably around 8 hours in Budapest, a short stop between two trains while backpacking in Eastern Europe, the only countries we were allowed to visit in our extended jail, “the paradise of workers and peasants”

Andrassy Utca, Pest, Budapest, Hungary

I remembered vaguely Budapest of those times with imposing buildings and decrepit facades, a gray city of communist poverty but way more opened to the western culture that our Romanian dictatorship would allow. And in those time this opening manifested through music and consumer goods completely lacking in Romania was obsessively more important for us that any other cultural aspects. So I wanted for many years to revisit Budapest and I kept postponing probably because …it was too close.

Vajdahunyad Castle, Pest, Budapest, Hungary

Coming from Vienna my old-life misconceptions shaped in my mind a toned down Budapest just to be startled by its new look. I found a monumental city with large boulevards lined up by lavish villas hidden behind leafy trees, houses owned once by the Hungarian bourgeoise, taken over later by the Communist apparatchik and now by the nouveau riche. A city that strives to prove that is still an important capital of a once powerful but now vanished empire, the capital of Hungary that history made it smaller and smaller, always choosing the wrong side of history as they chose today a path against the entire Europe.

The roof of the Ethnographic Museum, Budapest, Hungary

However Budapest is amazing through its conservation effort, a city where old architecture is preserved with intense energy on an accelerated rhythm giving the feeling that everywhere people are working non-stop on renovating their city most probably with European funds. The newly opened museums like the Ethnographic Museum and the House of Music from the City Park are splendid newly built architectural jewels.

Public Library, Pest, Budapest, Hungary

So a stroll in Pest, on the Eastern bank of the Danube, is a walk of discovery strolling the roof on the new ethnographic museum, to the cathedral and the gorgeously renovated palace that houses now the public library filled with students studyIng.

Pest -Budapest at sunset

The sun setting behind Buda Hill drowns all Pest buildings by the river in a magical orange hue inviting for a stroll and admire the glory of the divine light.

The shoes monument on the Danube, Pest, Budapest

In the godly hue of the sunset the shoes memorial of the Jews murdered towards the end of the war is even more powerful. They were executed along the river bank by the members of the Hungarian Arrow Cross party police around December 1944 and January 1945. More than 20,000 jews taken from the ghetto perished in that short period.

Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary

I found Budapest swamped by tourists buses, everywhere you went you could see groups after groups herded by guides telling stories in all languages. I was wondering how crowded may be the city in summer if it were packed like this in the whimsical April.

Parliament, Pest, Budapest, Hungary

And nowhere you see more people that on the night Danube cruises – a must do in Budapest – that were fully packed.

Szimpla Kert Ruined Pub, Pest-Budapest, Hungary

And after such a long walk in Pest the best place to chill is in one of the Ruined Pub, great hang out places about which I heard lots of praises. These places are bars built in former abandoned buildings that became the cool places to go in Budapest, most of them developed in the Jewish Quarter. I read that the one such bar opened in 1999 but the one considered the first pioneer ruined bar in Budapest is Szimpla Kert opened in 2002.

Szimpla Kert Ruined Pub, Pest-Budapest, Hungary

The bar takes over an entire building that is large and mainly deep, on two or more floors embracing the building’s natural decay, decorated with old furnishing and bizarre decor, many times a pastiche of weird elements that are visually striking.

Szimpla Kert Ruined Pub, Pest-Budapest, Hungary

The chill images should be augmented with the music that pumps in each and every room, with people dancing and changing rooms depending on their mood. The electric atmosphere of the place kept me there till midnight in spite of the almost 20 miles that I walked that day.

Szimpla Kert Ruined Pub, Pest-Budapest, Hungary