Tag Archives: palazzo

Italian Piazza

“Race for a cure” through the cathedral Square, Brescia, Italy

“The beauty is in the eye of the beholder” is a saying but in Italy the beauty is as encompassing as the air you breathe. Any place in Italy envelops you in beauty that is exuded both by its generous nature but mainly by what humans created along history. And in spite of wars and destruction that raged for centuries along the Italian peninsula people, by the sheer love of their places always rebuilt and embellished their destroyed towns.

Brixia Archeological Park, Brescia, Italy

In Brescia we closed the loop we started in Bergamo, two cities that seem connected at the hip. They were together European culture capital in 2023 and all visiting fliers offered by their marketing offices show both city maps one near another, marking out their remarkable buildings. It makes you feel that you MUST see both cities situated actually pretty close to each other.

Piazza de la Loggia, Brescia, Italy

But more than the beautiful buildings, churches, museums and palazzo what radiates the charm of an Italian city is its piazza. The life of the city happens in the piazza that fills up with people since early morning and it will find them in the same spot at the wee hours of the night. Piazza is an Italian institution where gossip flies, deals are made, dating flourishes and local culture is crafted. For us it was no better time than coming to the piazza in the early hours of the morning when few were out sipping a coffee while reading the newspaper, relaxed sitting in one of the many chairs that line up the piazza’s pavement. We joined them and sat there waiting for the others to wake up and fill up the rest of the chairs, and always sad when we decided to leave, that we could not stay as long as them, having to live the life of travelers ready to discover a new city. And hoping that somehow, by miracle in the next visit we’d be able to spend hours in that same piazza. Just chilling.

Brescia Castle, Italy

In Brescia, like in all other Italian towns we enjoyed piazza – and there are many of them – watching how locals come, chat, read, smoke, admire, laugh and go on with their life. A life that apparently happens at a completely different pace than the one we are so used to in New York where time is translated in money and life slips through your fingers.

Piazza de la Logia, Brescia, Italy

But walking uphill towards the Brescia Castle we could not avoid stepping on names etched in metal plates. A long row of plaques with names after names, citizens’ medallions, of local Brescians or foreigners, all with a date around 1974 or 1975. People were walking peacefully their dogs stepping obliviously over these medallions just to find out these were the names of the ones who died or were severely wounded in the 1974 terrorist attack with a bomb in the same piazza, Piazza de Loggia, where life seemed the most peaceful and cherished. “Far right, far left, fascists, communists are all the same” told us one of the locals whom we asked who put the bomb. “This year will be the 50th year anniversary of the bombing” (where 8 people died and 102 were wounded), he told us.

Piazza Paolo VI, Brescia, Italy

Our flight from Milan to New York was in the afternoon so we did not have enough time to delve into Brescia’s palazzos and museums. We walked the city streets making a point to touch all its square even devoid of the crowds that make them vibe in the evening. Also, we felt saturated by the Italian beauty. Even without a precise schedule of visits the towns are overwhelming in what they offer. A schedule may be for sure helpful but we were wondering how many days you really need in order to check all the venues marked on paper while we did not have a moment of respiro in a day without any trace of a schedule! And we strolled the entire city from archeological sites, to spectacular arhitectural jewels, to churches, statues, parks, fountains, museums, art galleries, painted chapels, collections, palaces, all loaded by beautiful art created in centuries of exquisite and refined flourishing of this part of Europe. At one point you cannot avoid noticing that you became saturated of this astounding art and its emanating beauty and stroll quicker, seemingly afraid in a way of more visits. And you realize in shock that can absorb no more the surrounding refinement that became, if this is really possible… too uniform.

Piazzale Arnaldo, Brescia, Italy

Superba

Palazzo Reale, Genoa, Italy

When walking inside the mirrors’ hall of Genoa’s Palazzo Reale you feel a bit like in “Last Year in Marienbad”, where the images are reflected back to themselves, disorienting, multiplying like in the dream the movie wanted to portray. The museum and its remarkable art collection occupies a palace, that changed hands for about two centuries between the local patrician families Balbi and Durazzo till it came under the ownership of the House of Savoy that associated to it the Royal title.

Pupils in Palazzo Spinolla for an art lesson, Genoa, Italy

I found fascinating in all these palaces and art galleries in Bergamo, Torino and now in Genoa, the numerous groups of pupils from middle school and high school who came for an art lesson. They sat in circles on the floor while the teacher or a museum curator explained the paintings and the history or the religious facts associated with them. The explanations were sometimes way too long and the kids were drifting to their phones. But I could see that soon they put the phones back in their pockets and continue listening quietly, attentive to the explanations.

The ceiling of Santissima Annunziata del Vastato, Genoa, Italy

Squeezed between the mountains and the sea Genoa gives credit to Janus, the “two-faced” god, for its founding. The city even has a well, named Pozzo di Giano (Janus’ Well), built around 1600, that is said to be the exact spot where Genoa was born, a place where sailing lines and shrouds for the ships were made.

The fountain is pink for Giro d’Italia in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Genoa, Italy

But Genoa’s history and its maritime prowess blessed the city with layers of civilization and a plethora of palaces, churches and squares that made Petrarch to name the city, La Superba.

Cathedral of San Lorenzo, Genoa, Italy

And probably the most striking of all the city’s building is Genoa’s San Lorenzo Cathedral. Its facade and interior’s horizontal black and white marble stripes is a sign of the medieval nobility of the Republic of Genoa, only four families in Genoa having the privilege to decorate the buildings they founded in this manner, Doria, Spinola, Fieschi and Grimaldi. However the black and white stripes were also widespread in Tuscany, the color appearing on the cities’ coat of arms.

Cathedral of San Lorenzo, Genoa, Italy

On the cathedral’s portico each column is decorated with sculpted motives. The interior shows the combination of the Gothic arches topped by Romanesque striped arches, proof of the mastery of the French artists who built it. It was consecrated as the cathedral of Genoa in 1118, more than a millennium ago. The financial success of the maritime commerce enabled the merchant families of Genoa to also establish one of the first universities in the world and the first credit bank in the world.

Cathedral of San Lorenzo, Genoa, Italy

“Serge de Nîmes,” a blend of silk and wool used primarily for making sails and cover the merchandise on boats made its way to Genoa where the local traders, created a cotton version of it and dyed it blue using indigo traded from India. They marketed the new fabric as “blue of Genoa,” and soon the new fabric made its way across the Atlantic ocean following in the footstep – or better said sails – of Genoa’s native son Christopher Columbus. In the New World “Les Blue de Genes” ended up as fabric for a sort of very resistant pants for the working class, better known nowadays as … Blue Jeans.

Bruno Cataldo’s Khadine in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Genoa, Italy

Geno’s inner city is made up of a fascinating maze of alleys named by the locals carrugi. The complex structure of these narrow streets, charming now for a stroll of discovery, helped once defend the city of the enemies that always seemed to come from the sea.

Carrugi in Genoa inner city

It is said that the carrugi were built to defend against the Moors’ invasions, complicating the advance of the enemy armies and allowing the Genoese to build barricades and setting up ambushes.

Carrugi in Genoa inner city

It was developed as a typical medieval labyrinth once developed in castles and fortresses or in the Arab medinas.

Volley in carrugi in Genoa inner city

Nowadays the carrugi still are beaming with life with locals playing volleyball in tiny squares…

Fish market in carrugi, Genoa, Italy

…small stores selling great food and migrants and prostitutes finding cheaper housing.

Prosciutto and more in a carrugi store